Christmas Cactus
by CMG Kathleen S.
Photo from homeandgarden.com
In the 1800’s, a group of botanists were in the tropical rainforest of Brazil looking for new plant species when they discovered what we now know as the Christmas cactus ( Schlumbergera truncata ). This plant is a succulent but also a native to a lush and steamy area of the world.
Christmas cacti are epiphytes. In Brazil they can be found growing in thin layers of organic material inhabiting nooks and crannies in tree trunks and among the rocks. They are growing in a light, porous organic material including leaf mold and sand. In our environment Christmas cacti are house plants and part of our Christmas traditions. They don’t have leaves. Instead, their stems, known as cladodes, consist of individual sections strung together like links in a chain. The sections have the appearance of flat green ‘claws’. This configuration helps to reduce water loss. Flowers grow at the end of each stem or cladode. Blooms can be pink, red, purple or white and will last for several days. The blooming period usually lasts up to 2 weeks.
Schlumbergera truncata from CMG Ronnie
There are several holiday cacti sold and often they are all referred to as Christmas cactus. Their common names are the Thanksgiving cactus, Schlumbergera truncata; the Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera x buckleyi and Schlumbergera bridgesii; and the Easter/Spring cactus, Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri. To identify the one you have and learn about the different types of holiday cacti click here.
The Christmas cactus has two main requirements; no wet feet and indirect lighting. Terracotta or clay pots work best because they will soak up excess water from around the cactus. Be sure to have drainage holes in the bottom. A cactus planting mixture is made from sand, gravel and perhaps some pumice, with small amounts of pine bark, potting soil or peat moss. Regular potting soil needs to be mixed with perlite to yield a loamy feel.
This plant requires 4 to 6 hours of indirect lighting. It will grow in partial shade. Long periods of direct bright sunlight will cause the leaves to turn yellow. Plan to fertilize twice a year; once in the Spring and again in the Summer. It needs a consistent temperature of 70 to 80 degrees with no drafts or heating vents. Misting the plant or using a pebble tray underneath its pot can provide it with needed humidity.
Christmas cacti can develop fungal diseases caused by too much water, not enough light or stagnant air. Symptoms are black, yellow or brown spots. Mealybugs will leave a black residue on the stems and invite an ant invasion. Treat the plant with an insecticidal soap spray. Root rot and necrotic spot virus (a disease spread by thrips) can also be a problem.
Photo from savvygarden.com
Take cuttings in the spring to easily propagate Christmas cacti. Clip a cutting with 2 to 5 leaf segments. Allow the cut ends of the clippings to callus for 2 days and then place in a pot with cactus mix. Place in a warm and somewhat sunny location. Keep the soil moist. New growth should appear in a few weeks. With the proper care your new plants will provide years of enjoyment.
Some people have or inherit large Christmas Cactus that has been “part of the family” for many years. Christmas Cactus are a Christmas tradition and given that they are easy to propagate they make nice home grown gifts. Their bright blooms are a pretty spark of color against the winter landscape. Encouraging the plant to bloom at the “correct” time requires less daylight and cooler night time temperatures. Put the plant in a totally dark room at night; keep the temperature around 55 degrees and limit watering to only when the soil is dry and then only water the top inch of soil. YouTube videos can offer further assistance for help with encouraging blooms and click here for information about how to prune a Christmas cactus.
References: gardeningflow.com; gardenemrspath.com; aggie-hort-tamu.edu; britannica.com; thespruce.com